Issue link: https://viewer.e-digitaledition.com/i/757002
54 December 1 • 2016
The cocktail bar offers the namesake's rare vari-
eties of green and yellow Chartreuse liqueur like
Genepi de Peres — a legendary "elixir of long life"
made by monks near the Chartreuse Mountains
in France since 1737 and a personal favorite of
Levine's. The Chartreuse liqueur is made from a
secret recipe of 130 herbs and plants — sort of the
Da Vinci Code of drinks that lends itself to some
playful mystique.
Like everything at his restaurant, Levine carefully
vets his wine list, highlighting red, white and spar-
kling wines from California, France, Spain and Italy,
including naturally made biodynamic offerings.
"Space is limited here. As a result, every item we
serve has to be memorable and the best quality we
can offer," Levine said.
Levine is also the owner of the Oakland Art
Novelty Company, an award-winning cocktails-only modern speak-
easy (There is no sign for the bar. You need be in the know to find the
location) in Ferndale.
"I originally wanted to open the Oakland Downtown, but the
opportunity in Ferndale worked for us, and it's another great commu-
nity to be in," he said.
The Oakland showcases show-worthy cocktails with spirits
acquired abroad like Glenfiddich single-malt Scotch whiskey and
Ypioca Cachaca rum. Even David Wondrich, one of the world's fore-
most cocktail historians, was in awe during his visit there.
ALL IN THE FAMILY
Sometimes you're just born into a livelihood that becomes your pas-
sion. That's the case for Levine, he says, even though he graduated
with a degree in psychology from Kalamazoo College.
His family has owned restaurants in the Metro Detroit area for 60
years, and he began washing dishes for them when he was 11 years
old. "My grandparents, Jack and Harriet Goldberg, started the Stage
Deli in the 1960s, originally in Oak Park and now in West Bloomfield,"
he said. It was the first place of its kind where you could expect to see
celebrities canoodling in a corner booth listening to the sounds of live
jazz and noshing on chopped liver. Owner, Jack Goldberg, liked to
describe it as "a delicatessen meets fine dining."
Other family members now run the Stage Deli that's going strong as
ever and is a local institution. "We've always been about being loyal to
the area," Levine said. He grew up in the northern suburbs, and he and
his family were members of Temple Israel in West Bloomfield.
Levine and his staff are eager to give back to the community by
participating in charitable events like Regenerate Detroit — donating
time and effort raising money to help pay tuition for culinary students
— and Deja Food, a Dec. 11 event benefitting Detroit Dog Rescue.
"I guess you could say the restaurant business is in my blood, and
the truth is I don't think I am cut out to do anything else," Levine
laughingly confesses. Today he brings his own family — wife, Heather,
and two young children — into the business with him. "Heather is a
partner, also, and I rely on her for every great decision we have made."
Chartreuse may very well become another Detroit institution, and
Levine says his parents and grandparents would be proud he's carried
on the family tradition.
"I know it may sound cliche, but if you find something you love as
much as I love bringing a unique dining experience to the great clien-
tele we have coming in, it doesn't get any better than this."
*
nosh
Chartreuse Kitchen
& Cocktails
15 E. Kirby Suite D
Detroit, Michigan
@ChartreuseDetroit
Call (313) 818-3915
Parking lot parking
Serves lunch and dinner
Price range: $$
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